At The Barber's (2014) is an aromatic fougère by Givaudan perfumer Louise Turner for Maison Martin Margiela. It is a modern take on the classic type and illustrates well how the so-called fern fragrances can be made entirely new whilst keeping to the classic form.
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At The Barber's — An Aromatic Fougère
How It's Done
Building on a large dose of popular modern materials such as Iso E Super, Hedione, Dihydromyrcenol and synthetic sandalwood (in an accord of Dartanol and Sandalore) atop a grand mélange of white musks, all the basic elements of a fougère are present but updated.
The original scent contains Givaudan captive musk Serenolide (around 1.2%) and we have replaced it here with a considerably higher dose of Helvetolide which has a similar profile but is 4–6 times weaker. Both are fruity and radiant. Doubling-down on the sweetness Turner backs up the Serenolide with Ethylene Brassylate and Ambrettolide. The stage is thus set for a lovely pear accord that weaves through the scent from top (via a judicious overdose of Ethyl Acetoacetate introducing some classic fruit aroma chemicals such as Peranat (0.3%), Verdox (0.3%) and Hexyl 2 Methyl Butyrate (0.25%)). For convenience we have replaced those (plus a few other minor materials) with our highly popular Pear Belle base which serves the same function but adds a juicier (and more natural) pear note.
We see the refined molecular distilled Vetiver from Floral Concept which sits nicely with the veramoss overdose, standing in place of the far dirtier (and highly restricted) classic green oakmoss of the fougère type.
The typical patchouli (here using the elegant PA38 material from Aceh in Indonesia) and vetiver notes are updated and linked with Piconia, a diffusive material that works very well with the radiant Helvetolide.
A fougère is not a fougère without salicylates and as you'd expect in a modern scent, we see the older Amyl and Isoamyl Salicylates freshened up with the green tinged Cis 3 Hexenyl Salicylate. A little Styrallyl Acetate tilts this towards a floral green rather than a cut-grass green linking nicely with the geranium and lavender.
A delightful aromatic note is added with a total blast from the past blend of basil, thyme, rosemary, spearmint and lavender. Black pepper adds a slightly less common spicy twist that forms a "new classic" accord with the refined Bourbon Geranium — a masterpiece in distillation from V. MANE Fils.
Back Story And Reviews
While not garnering as many stars on Fragrantica as we believe it should (it scores 3.81 out of a possible 5), this fragrance is an artful demonstration of updating a classic form in a way that no one will be offended; indeed one reviewer on that website states: “It doesn't project too much and doesn't offend anyone working with me.” That said, the under 30s staff at Fraterworks love the fragrance and it is one of the most popular in our perfume library (along with — surprisingly for that demographic — Drakkar Noir released in 1982 by Guy Laroche and made by the IFF perfumer Pierre Wargnye).
English perfumer Louise Turner has produced some marvellous scents since she began working as a perfumer in 2000. Of note are Good Girl (2016) and Bad Boy (2019) for Carolina Herrera, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet (2014), Chloé Love (2010), Glow (2002) for Jennifer Lopez, and Lazy Sunday Morning (2013) also for Maison Martin Margiela and her most talked about: Lost Cherry (2018) for Tom Ford.
Make It Your Own
This scent makes a perfect jumping off point for derivative products. One possible twist could be to add a smidgen of maltol or ethyl maltol with some beautiful Blackcurrant Buds Absolute to plump up the fruitiness. A trace of Cassis Base certainly wouldn't hurt in that case.
Another option is to push harder in the direction of that masterpiece of manly muskiness: Brut (1968, Karl Mann for Faberge). This could be achieved by adding a touch of Isobutyl Salicylate to crown the musk fond with a nitro Musk Ambrette nuance and including Hydroxycitronellal for floralcy (start at 1% and move up to around 5%). Brut's discreet orange blossom character can be added with some Oranger Crystals and Methyl Anthranilate (the combined total should be less than 0.5%). A touch of Benzyl Acetate will complete the butch florals. And don't forget to boost that Basil ex Methyl Chavicol - Brut is practically drowning in the stuff.
Our final suggestion is to deluxify it! Substitute Orbitone for Iso E Super, Orcanox for Ambrofix and go nuts with the naturals: Sandalwood Mysore instead of Sandalore — keep the Dartanol, a little Oakmoss IFRA (try 0.2%) and for the truly daring (and holders of a bottomless pit of crypto) swap in Ambrette Seed oil for Ambrettolide.
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