Oakmoss Green Absolute
Oakmoss Green Absolute
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True Chypre DNA in concentrated form.
Deep woods essence with unmatched fixation.
Ancient lichen magic for modern perfumery.
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Oakmoss Green Absolute Customer
Variety: Evernia Prunastri Classification: Base Note[i]
When Francois Coty created the great feminine masterpiece Chypre, there was only one oakmoss he would accept: pure and natural green Yugoslavian oakmoss. He adored it so much that he used a whopping 8% in that famous fragrance. Over the forthcoming decades all other perfumers used the same product - from Ernest Beaux with No 5 for Chanel, all the way up to the 21st century when tragically pure and natural oakmoss was restricted by IFRA and only permitted if it were chemically altered to remove atranol.
Most suppliers today only stock the chemically altered brown IFRA compliant oakmoss which lacks a lot of the beauty of this product. But not all... we are absolutely thrilled to be able to offer pure and natural Yugoslavian green oakmoss absolute. This is not IFRA compliant. Despite that, it still finds many uses and is still permitted in numerous regions of the world. Needless to say, this incredibly rich and beautiful material is essential for recreating the classic scents of yesteryear.
This is classic green oakmoss absolute sold pure (as a solid material) or in liquid form diluted to 50% in natural odourless triethyl citrate.
We also offer an IFRA compliant oakmoss absolute (pure or at 50% dilution) from Laboratoire Monique Remy (LMR).
Origin: Nations of the former Yugoslavia
Part: Moss
Method of production: Solvent extraction in Grasse
Disclaimer: where applicable, references to third-party perfumes, brand names and trade marks are solely for identification and comparison. This is an independently developed Fraterworks formulation, not the original, and is not affiliated with or endorsed by any brand or trade mark owner.
- Country of Origin
- France
- IFRA 51
- 0.1% in finished product (Cat. 4)
- Odour Family
- Mossy
- Appearance
- Thick green paste
- Longevity
- Lasts > 400 hours on a smelling strip.
- Alternative Names
- Oakmoss Absolute (Full fat)
- INCI Name
- EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT
Oakmoss delivers an intensely earthy, woody aroma reminiscent of damp forest floors, combining deep mossy richness with subtle marine undertones and hints of leather and smoke.
Essential base note for Chypre and Fougère compositions, providing exceptional tenacity and natural depth.
General Information
General Information
Like most suppliers and makers of quality raw materials for fragrances, we do not filter many of our products. This ensures that no odiferous matter is lost prior to use but can result in the appearance of small particles or slight clouding.
All alcoholic fragrances should be macerated for up to a month and then chilled in a moderate freezer overnight before being filtered fine. This will remove all cloudiness or detritus and is the industry norm.
IFRA Standards
IFRA Standards
Permitted amounts in finished product:
IFRA 51: 0.1%
IFRA 49: Prohibited
These are derived from calculated concentrations which do not replace chromatographic quantification on individual lots. Disclaimer...
For Trade Use Only
For Trade Use Only
Our products are intended as building blocks in the perfume creation process; they are not to be applied to the skin undiluted.
These raw materials are for use by the perfumery trade only.
Usage in Perfumery
Oakmoss Green Absolute appears in 3% of the perfumes we have analysed, at a median of 0.3% of the concentrate.
- Odour
- Woody, earthy, mossy, green, oily
- Family
- Mossy
- Common dilutions
- 50%, 10%
- Substantivity
- > 400 hours on a smelling strip
Free formulasFougère Royale (10%), Cypria 986749 (8%), Kayak (7.94%), Chypre (5.33%), Cheops (3.51%), Thousand Flowers (2.5%), Crabtree Classic Lavender (2%), Twilight Fern (1.98%), Derby 1985 (1.8%), Nuit de Chine (1%), Vetiver Tommaso (1%), Brut (1%), Zen Original (1%), Black Dress (1%), VBNA Homme (0.5%), 1000 Reimagined (0.42%), Nuit de Noel (0.4%), Patou Pour Homme (0.192%), Shocking (0.1%)
Creative FormulasC.K. One Vintage (0.1–10%), Drakkar Noir, Lanv. for Men Vintage, Lonestar Memories Vintage, Oud for Greatness Neo, Pour Monsieur, Safari for Men, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Bel Ami Vetiver (< 0.1%), Bleu Parfum, Isola Sol, Vetiver Parfum Cologne
Also known by 21 other names
Oakmoss Absolute (Full fat); evernia prunastri lichen absolute; evernia prunastri lichen absolute color reduced; green; moss oak absolute; moss-oak abs MD TEC IFRA 43; moss-oak absolute IFRA 43; mousse de chene absolute (evernia prunasti spp.); mousse de chene resinsoap for fragrances; musk absolute; oak moss absolute; oak moss absolute color reduced; oakmoss absolute low atranol; oakmoss absolute M decolorized; oakmoss absolute macedonia; oakmoss absolute resin - flavor & fragrance grade; oakmoss absolute resin - fragrance grade; oakmoss absolute yugo decolorized; oakmoss clarextract; oakmoss incolor abs MD on carrier (TEG); oakmoss low atran codist DPG
Statistics drawn from published GCMS analyses, commercial and demonstration formulas. References to third-party perfumes, brand names and trade marks are solely for identification and comparison. Formulas not made, supplied, licensed, authorised, sponsored or endorsed by the manufacturer or trade mark owner.
What Oakmoss is made of
A Fraterworks analysis of the published chemical compositions of Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach, showing the median and observed range of each constituent across three studies.
Fraterworks Composition Combined from three published analyses — median and observed range
| Constituent | CAS | Median | Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Methyl beta-orcinolcarboxylate | 4707-47-5 | 18.6% | 10.2–25.5% |
| Ethyl hematommate | 1.4% | 1–3% | |
| Ethyl chlorohematommate | 1% | 0.01–1.3% | |
| Ethyl everninate | 570-10-5 | 0.2% | 0.2–3.7% |
| Chloroatranorin | 479-16-3 | 0.1% | 0.01–0.7% |
| Evernic acid | 537-09-7 | 0.1% | 0.01–0.7% |
| Atranorin | 479-20-9 | 0.01% | 0.01–0.3% |
Oakmoss absolute (Morocco)Terajima, Y., Ichikawa, H., Tokua, K., and Nakamura, S., Quantitative Analysis of Oakmoss (Moroccan absolute), B.M. Lawrence, B.D. Mookherjee and B.J. Willis (Eds.), Flavors and Fragrances: A World Perspective. Proceedings of the 10th. Int. Congress of Ess. Oils, Fragr. and Flav., Washington D.C. 1986, 685-695, Elsevier, Amsterdam (1988)
- Methyl beta-orcinolcarboxylate4707-47-525.5%
- Ethyl hematommate 1.4%
- Ethyl chlorohematommate 1.3%
- Ethyl everninate 570-10-50.2%
- Evernic acid 537-09-70.01%
- Chloroatranorin 479-16-30.01%
- Atranorin 479-20-90.01%
Oakmoss (Yugoslavia) 1Terajima, Y., Ichikawa, H., Tokua, K., and Nakamura, S., Quantitative Analysis of Oakmoss (Yugoslavian concrete), B.M. Lawrence, B.D. Mookherjee and B.J. Willis (Eds.), Flavors and Fragrances: A World Perspective. Proceedings of the 10th. Int. Congress of Ess. Oils, Fragr. and Flav., Washington D.C. 1986, 685-695 Elsevier, Amsterdam, 1988
- Methyl beta-orcinolcarboxylate4707-47-510.2%
- Ethyl hematommate 1%
- Evernic acid 537-09-70.7%
- Chloroatranorin 479-16-30.7%
- Atranorin 479-20-90.3%
- Ethyl everninate 570-10-50.2%
- Ethyl chlorohematommate 0.01%
Oakmoss (Yugoslavia) 2Terajima, Y., Ichikawa, H., Tokua, K., and Nakamura, S., Quantitative Analysis of Oakmoss (Yugoslavian absolute, 2 samples), B.M. Lawrence, B.D. Mookherjee and B.J. Willis (Eds.), Flavors and Fragrances: A World Perspective. Proceedings of the 10th. Int. Congress of Ess. Oils, Fragr. and Flav., Washington D.C. 1986, 685-695, Elsevier, Amsterdam, 1988
- Methyl beta-orcinolcarboxylate4707-47-518.6%
- Ethyl everninate 570-10-53.7%
- Ethyl hematommate 3%
- Ethyl chlorohematommate 1%
- Evernic acid 537-09-70.1%
- Chloroatranorin 479-16-30.1%
- Atranorin 479-20-90.01%
Sources: Published studies indexed by Essential Oil University (EOUdb). Constituent harmonisation and calculations by Fraterworks.
Demonstration Formulas
Explore real-world examples showcasing the versatility and applications of our premium products. See the complete index.
Chypre 246057 — Feminine Fragrance
Fougère Royale — Original Fougère
Cypria 986749 — Classical Chypre
No 19 — A Floral Green Fragrance
Iris Gris — Floral Woody Fragrance
* Disclaimer
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General Disclaimer
(a) Vegan labelling: Where the word “vegan” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any animal products to products marked vegan. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used animal additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked vegan “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.
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(d) Demonstration formulas: Demonstration formulas are provided as a guide only. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to the formula. You access and use the formula at your own risk. These are independent Fraterworks reconstructions based on our own GCMS and olfactory analysis. They are not the manufacturers' original formulas and have not been supplied, authorised, licensed, sponsored or endorsed by the manufacturers. Brand and perfume names are used solely to identify the subject of the analysis and comparison. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of the formula is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a formula.
Note: Wherever you are a professional perfumer or a hobbyist, we have what you need — from essential oils and absolutes, to bases, perfume chemicals (synthetics), bottles and more. We also offer compounding (contract blend), fragrance formulation, and an artisan lab visit for a guided smelling experience. Please note that we are not selling perfumes and that our materials are for use for perfume creation. We ship all around the world and have customer service that is second to none. We also stock educational kits and sample kits.
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Regulations
DisclaimerAll of our products are compliant with EU 1223/2009 and the NZCPGS. None of our bases contain prohibited materials and regulatory compliance is possible depending on usage.
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IFRA Conformity
All of our bases can be used in products requiring conformity with the latest IFRA standards. Fraterworks is an official member of IFRA and the FFAANZ.
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Nitro Musks
Some of our products may contain small amounts of EU and IFRA compliant musk ketone. We never use musk xylene, musk ambrette or any other prohibited materials.
Oakmoss Green Absolute