Oakmoss Green Absolute
Oakmoss Green Absolute
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Two companies dominate the Oakmoss world today: LMR, specialising in the finest qualities of IFRA compliant Oakmoss, and Payan Bertrand which wears the crown of the classic unadulterated green oakmoss products. While other suppliers have variations on the so-called “full fat” green oakmoss, only Payan Bertrand comes close to the quality used before the IFRA standards came in to force. If you want the Oakmoss revered by Coty, the Oakmoss used by Ernest Beaux and Jean Carles: you have one choice: Payan Bertrand.
This is classic green oakmoss absolute sold pure (as a solid material) or in liquid form diluted by Fraterworks to 50% in natural odourless triethyl citrate.
When Francois Coty created the great feminine masterpiece Chypre, there was only one oakmoss he would accept: pure and natural green Yugoslavian oakmoss. He adored it so much that he used a whopping 8% in that famous fragrance. Over the forthcoming decades all other perfumers used the same product - from Ernest Beaux with No 5 for Chanel, all the way up to the 21st century when tragically pure and natural oakmoss was restricted by IFRA and only permitted if it were chemically altered to remove atranol.
Most suppliers today only stock the chemically altered brown IFRA compliant oakmoss which lacks a lot of the beauty of this product. But not all... we are absolutely thrilled to be able to offer pure and natural Yugoslavian green oakmoss absolute. This is not IFRA compliant. Despite that, it still finds many uses and is still permitted in numerous regions of the world. Needless to say, this incredibly rich and beautiful material is essential for recreating the classic scents of yesteryear.
We also offer an IFRA compliant oakmoss absolute (pure or at 50% dilution) from Laboratoire Monique Remy (LMR).
Origin: Nations of the former Yugoslavia
Part: Moss
Method of production: Solvent extraction in Grasse
Fraterworks® is strictly a reseller of this product and is neither an agent nor official distributor for Payan Bertrand.
Appearance: Thick green paste
Longevity: Lasts > 400 hours on a smelling strip
General Information
General Information
Like most suppliers and makers of quality raw materials for fragrances, we do not filter many of our products. This ensures that no odiferous matter is lost prior to use but can result in the appearance of small particles or slight clouding.
All alcoholic fragrances should be macerated for up to a month and then chilled in a moderate freezer overnight before being filtered fine. This will remove all cloudiness or detritus and is the industry norm.
IFRA Standards
IFRA Standards
Permitted amounts in finished product:
IFRA 51: Prohibited
These are derived from calculated concentrations which do not replace chromatographic quantification on individual lots. Disclaimer...
For Trade Use Only
For Trade Use Only
Our products are intended as building blocks in the perfume creation process; they are not to be applied to the skin undiluted.
These raw materials are for use by the perfumery trade only.
Oakmoss Green Absolute, An Indepth Look:
Oakmoss products are used extensively in perfumery. They form important parts of the notes in all fougere, chypre, or “moss” perfumes, and they are common ingredients in colognes, crepe de Chines, forest notes, new mown hay, pine fragrances, lavender bouqets, Oriental bases, fancy or modern bases, etc. They can lend body and naturalness, rich pleasant undertones and high fixative value in numerous types of floral fragrances as well.The Absolutes are the most versatile in perfumery use. Their solubility and great power make them the most popular forms of oakmoss extract. The absolute from benzene extraction is very dark green, viscous or semi-solid, while the absolute from petroleum ether extracted concrete is liquid and brownish-green, less intense in color. Furthermore, most oakmoss products are, in reality, mixtures of oakmoss and treemoss products, the latter being less green in color, but also different in odor and less aromatic than true oakmoss.
S. Arctander. Perfume and flavor Materials of Natural Origin, Carol Stream: Allured Publishing Corporation, 2008, pp. 448–449.
Demonstration Formulas
Fraterworks demonstration formulas give you real-world examples of how our products are used. See the complete index.
Cypria 986749 — Classical Chypre
Chypre 246057 — Feminine Fragrance
Thousand Flowers 968344 — Aldehydic Floral
Jicky 1889 — Classical Fougère
VBNA Homme — Aromatic Fragrance
* Disclaimer
General Disclaimer
(a) Vegan labelling: Where the word “vegan” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any animal products to products marked vegan. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used animal additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked vegan “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.
(b) Natural labelling: Where the word “natural” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any synthetic additives to products marked natural. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used synthetic additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked natural “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.
(c) Documentation: We provide the information contained in each document you obtain from us (including but not limited to SDS, IFRA certificate, COA, TDS, EU Allergens, and any other regulatory document) “as is” and make no representation as to its accuracy, completeness, or reliability. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to a document you obtain from us. You purchase and use a document or documents at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of a document you obtain from us is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a document you obtain from us.
(d) Demonstration formulas: Demonstration formulas are provided as a guide only. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to the formula. You access and use the formula at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of the formula is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a formula.
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Regulations
DisclaimerAll of our products are compliant with EU 1223/2009 and the NZCPGS. None of our bases contain prohibited materials and regulatory compliance is possible depending on usage.
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IFRA Conformity
All of our bases can be used in products requiring conformity with the latest IFRA standards. Check the use levels under the Usage Restrictions section above.
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Nitro Musks
Some of our products may contain small amounts of EU and IFRA compliant musk ketone. We never use musk xylene, musk ambrette or any other prohibited materials.