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    Fruit Collection | Golden Age Collection

    Persicol

    Persicol

    Ref: 888561
    Manufacturer: Fraterworks
    UFI: SWUC-9JRS-520C-RC3V
    $3.50 USD
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    Persicol is one of the most famous classical bases, being first used in Nuit de Chine (1913—formula below) by Maurice Schaller for Paul Poiret's Les Parfums de Rosine, but most famously ten years later as the key peach note at 0.4% pure in Mitsouko (1919) by Jacques Guerlain. It also featured in Bois des Îles by Ernest Beaux for Chanel with 4% Ambre Solide.

    Contrary to popular belief, Persicol (created by Chuit Naef & Cie) is not a synonym for the chemical undecalactone gamma (so-called Aldehyde C-14) which was patented in 1908 but an achingly sweet peach base featuring that chemical to exploit and demonstrate its commercial uses to perfumers of the day, just as De Laire created Mousse de Saxe to market the then recently discovered chemical isobutyl quinoline.

    Persicol is used in the same way as undecalactone gamma and can be used as a one for one replacer.

    Appearance: Clear liquid

    Usage Restrictions

    Permitted amounts in finished product:

    IFRA 51: 25.5%
    IFRA 49: 25.5%

    These are derived from calculated concentrations which do not replace chromatographic quantification on individual lots. Disclaimer...

    Label Requirements

    Ingredients may need to be listed as per your local legislation based on data found in the EU allergens report.

    Additional Requirements

    No additional labelling requirements.

    For Trade Use Only

    Our products are intended as building blocks in the perfume creation process; they are not to be applied to the skin undiluted.

    These raw materials are for use by the perfumery trade only.

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    Nuit de Chine: An Animalic Delight

    Persicol was used for the first time in the classic fougère fragrance called Nuit de Chine by Maurice Shaller for Rosine in 1913. Nuit de Chine took its lead from Fougère Royale of 1889 (though perhaps more so via Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain, 1904) and is similarly structured except for the addition of a huge dose of sandalwood in a central key accord with geranium Bourbon, Rose D'Orient and Persicol.

    Guerlain copied Chypre by Coty (1917) in making Mitsouko (1919) but added 0.4% of the same Persicol that Shaller had used in Nuit de Chine. This addition was a hit and to this day you can still buy Mitsouko (albeit modified by regulations and costs) while Chypre effectively languishes in the pages of history.

    Nuit de Chine, with its wonderfully rich geranium and rose heart and almost shocking skatolic drydown is long gone, but we have formulated a high quality and true-to-the-original perfume based on GCMS analyses of many vintage bottles and information known only to the trade about the construction of the fragrance. The demonstration formula is below.

    Demonstration Formulas

    Fraterworks demonstration formulas give you real-world examples of how our products are used. See the complete index.

    Nuit de Chine — Amber Fougère

    Black Dress — Spicy Amber

    * Disclaimer

    Customer Reviews

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    A
    Armando C Martinez
    Luscious Peach

    The misconception of C-14 aldehyde being Persicol itself as a trade name has been put to rest. Persicol is in itself a luscious delectable juicy peach. A fruit base that I find unbelievable had disappeared in the late 20th century along with Prunol. Persicol is an indispensable material that enhances many types of fragrances. It’s the material you never knew you were missing!

    • Regulations

      All of our products are compliant with EU 1223/2009 and the NZCPGS. None of our bases contain prohibited materials and regulatory compliance is possible depending on usage.

      Disclaimer 

    • IFRA Conformity

      All of our bases can be used in products requiring conformity with the latest IFRA standards. Check the use levels under the Usage Restrictions section above.

    • Nitro Musks

      Some of our products may contain small amounts of EU and IFRA compliant musk ketone. We never use musk xylene, musk ambrette or any other prohibited materials.