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    Fruit Collection | Golden Age Collection

    Persicol

    Persicol

    Ref: 888561
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    Regular price $4.00 USD
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    Persicol is one of the most famous classical bases, being first used in Nuit de Chine (1913—formula below) by Maurice Schaller for Paul Poiret's Les Parfums de Rosine, but most famously ten years later as the key peach note at 0.4% pure in Mitsouko (1919) by Jacques Guerlain. It also featured in Bois des Îles by Ernest Beaux for Chanel with 4% Ambre Solide.

    Contrary to popular belief, Persicol (created by Chuit Naef & Cie) is not a synonym for the chemical undecalactone gamma (so-called Aldehyde C-14) which was patented in 1908 but an achingly sweet peach base featuring that chemical to exploit and demonstrate its commercial uses to perfumers of the day, just as De Laire created Mousse de Saxe to market the then recently discovered chemical isobutyl quinoline.

    Persicol is used in the same way as undecalactone gamma and can be used as a one for one replacer.

    IFRA 51: 25.5% in finished product (Cat. 4)
    Appearance: Clear liquid

    General Information

    Like most suppliers and makers of quality raw materials for fragrances, we do not filter many of our products. This ensures that no odiferous matter is lost prior to use but can result in the appearance of small particles or slight clouding.

    All alcoholic fragrances should be macerated for up to a month and then chilled in a moderate freezer overnight before being filtered fine. This will remove all cloudiness or detritus and is the industry norm.

    IFRA Standards

    Permitted amounts in finished product:

    IFRA 51: 25.5%
    IFRA 49: 25.5%

    These are derived from calculated concentrations which do not replace chromatographic quantification on individual lots. Disclaimer...

    For Trade Use Only

    Our products are intended as building blocks in the perfume creation process; they are not to be applied to the skin undiluted.

    These raw materials are for use by the perfumery trade only.

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    Nuit de Chine: An Animalic Delight

    Persicol was used for the first time in the classic fougère fragrance called Nuit de Chine by Maurice Shaller for Rosine in 1913. Nuit de Chine took its lead from Fougère Royale of 1889 (though perhaps more so via Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain, 1904) and is similarly structured except for the addition of a huge dose of sandalwood in a central key accord with geranium Bourbon, Rose D'Orient and Persicol.

    Guerlain copied Chypre by Coty (1917) in making Mitsouko (1919) but added 0.4% of the same Persicol that Shaller had used in Nuit de Chine. This addition was a hit and to this day you can still buy Mitsouko (albeit modified by regulations and costs) while Chypre effectively languishes in the pages of history.

    Nuit de Chine, with its wonderfully rich geranium and rose heart and almost shocking skatolic drydown is long gone, but we have formulated a high quality and true-to-the-original perfume based on GCMS analyses of many vintage bottles and information known only to the trade about the construction of the fragrance. The demonstration formula is below.

    Demonstration Formulas

    Customer Reviews

    Based on 6 reviews
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    M
    Melanie M.
    A whiff of perfumes past

    There is far more historical authenticity than realism with this material and I'd argue that's key to its charm and impact! Especially for the perfumer making deliberate olfactory references to perfumes past: this is a must. And as a testament to its power, I have a scent strip (pictured) of Le Fruit Defendu by Rosine (1913) from the Osmotheque (Versailles) which, after 7 years in a sealed jar is still redolent of Persicol (along with coumarin, and delicate spice facet) - also pictured, the beautiful perfume history book, "Le Parfum: L'un des sens" published in collaboration with the curators of the MIP in Grasse. While I purchased this to accompany historical discussions of scent, I can't wait to blend something with it - I hope someday Jamie does a 'Forbidden Fruit' accord for us to explore it in context with the other ingredients (more context below):
    https://poiretperfumes.blogspot.com/2013/05/le-fruit-defendu-by-rosine-c1916.html

    J
    John

    Absolutely delicious! Sweet and beautiful

    A
    Adam
    Perfection

    Such a perfect, juicy peach base!

    G
    Guido
    The missing link

    I was so excited when I found out that Persicol was available at Fraterworks, because I still wanted to make Mitsouko but with the right ingredients.
    When I saw what else Jamie had available for creating high quality fragrances I was convinced.
    After ordering a load of ingredients, I quickly discovered what high quality Fraterworks offers.
    This is also the case with Persicol, it smells a bit like gamma-undecalatone, but it is not the same at all! I initially made Mitsouko with the ingredients I have myself, including C14, using the demo formula from Fraterworks, the outcome was very satisfactory, I have not yet had the time to make Mitsouko with all the ingredients that are available for making Mitsouko I bought from this website...I think the outcome will be amazing...

    l
    lia andrews
    Sweet and Nuclear

    This as the fruity half of Mitsouko! Unfortunately I underestimated its power and didn't dilute it prior to using it in the Demo Mitsouko formula. Don't do that.

    General Disclaimer

    (a) Vegan labelling: Where the word “vegan” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any animal products to products marked vegan. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used animal additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked vegan “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.

    (b) Natural labelling: Where the word “natural” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any synthetic additives to products marked natural. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used synthetic additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked natural “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.

    (c) Documentation: We provide the information contained in each document you obtain from us (including but not limited to SDS, IFRA certificate, COA, TDS, EU Allergens, and any other regulatory document) “as is” and make no representation as to its accuracy, completeness, or reliability. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to a document you obtain from us. You purchase and use a document or documents at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of a document you obtain from us is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a document you obtain from us.

    (d) Demonstration formulas: Demonstration formulas are provided as a guide only. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to the formula. You access and use the formula at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of the formula is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a formula.

    • Regulations

      All of our products are compliant with EU 1223/2009 and the NZCPGS. None of our bases contain prohibited materials and regulatory compliance is possible depending on usage.

      Disclaimer 
    • IFRA Conformity

      All of our bases can be used in products requiring conformity with the latest IFRA standards. Check the use levels under the Usage Restrictions section above.

    • Nitro Musks

      Some of our products may contain small amounts of EU and IFRA compliant musk ketone. We never use musk xylene, musk ambrette or any other prohibited materials.