Ambrofix™ (Ambroxan)

Since first appearing as captive ”super ambrox“ (not to be confused with ambrox super) in the famed Fixateur 404 base of Firmenich, ambroxan has enthralled perfumers and perfume enthusiasts alike. While once it was used in trace amounts to mimic the effects of natural ambergris (of which ambroxan naturally forms a key part) it is now found commonly in doses up to and beyond 10% of a fragrance. Sadly Firmenich has removed super ambrox from the market entirely by replacing Fixateur 404 with Fixateur 505, a 10% dilution of Cetalox. For those looking for the power and radiance of original Fixateur 404, we offer Ambrexol™.

Ambrofix, Givaudan's ambrox product, is the best non-captive quality on the market having the finest scent, the most strength and the greatest longevity. If you have sampled the offerings of other suppliers before this, you will immediately recognise in Ambrofix its superior quality. This is as close as you can get to the near-mythical captive superambrox — the same quality used in Aventus by Creed.

”Ambrofix™ is a highly powerful, highly substantive and highly stable ambery note. It is the most suitable material to deliver an authentic Ambregris note. Ambrofix™ also brings a woody sensuality to the composition and can be easily overdosed. It is the most widely used and most biodegradable ambery molecule. Traditionally, Ambrofix™ can be produced from a natural starting material derived from clary sage. Givaudan has developed a completely unique multi-step bioconversion process to produce Ambrofix™ starting from sugar cane. This new process is considered as one of the most sustainable process for Ambrofix™ in the market.” [source]

Starting from sclareol obbained from clary sage (Salvia sclarea L.) oil, Stoll and Hinder first synthesized Ambrox (Firmenich) as dodecahydrotrimethyl naphtho furan This synthesis was reported in 1950.

Mookherjee and Patel first isolated Ambrox from tincture of ambergris, revealing their findings in 1977.

Other perfume houses began to produce this furan chemical compound, some using novel fermentation prpcesses. It is now known under various trade names, such as Ambroxan (Henkel), Amberlyn (Quest)[, Ambrofix (Givaudan — this product)] and Amberiff (IFF), to name but a few.

Sensory evaluation of the enantiomers of Ambrox showed that the (+)-enantiomer has a dominant wuody note and the (–)-enantiomer has a warm musky animal note.

In 1987, Ambrox was synthesized from non-natural sources, and a few later Ambrx DL Coeur was introduced as a closest version of Ambrox. Ambrox DL (a mixture of [70%] isomers of dodecahydro-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl naphtho 2-1-b furan [and 30% captive cachalox]) is a white solid of a powerful amber note with a suggestion of woodiness. It is more diffusive than Ambrox, but less rich in dry-out.

^{D. P. Anonis. Amber Notes In Perfume, Perfumer & Flavorist vol. 20, January/February 1995, Carol Stream: Allured Publishing Corporation, 1995.}