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    Golden Age Collection | Toolkit Collection

    Cologne Imperiale 1853

    Cologne Imperiale 1853

    Ref: 117919
    Manufacturer:
    $8.00 USD
    $8.00 USD
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    Use it just like perfumer's alcohol. This is the original 1853 eau de cologne that launched the Guerlain brand. It is a ready-to-wear 5% strength cologne as was the norm for distilled fragrances such as these. 

    According to the house: “[c]reated in 1853 by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Imperiale is the first cologne Guerlain specially composed for the Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, earning its creator the title of ‘Her Majesty's patented Perfumer’.”

    This cologne was used as the base for the first version of Jicky which was decidedly different from the construction style of later versions. Below is a formula for a Jicky-style fragrance that illustrates how this was done as well as a formula for an Eau Sauvage type to demonstrate a modern use of the style. This is a wonderful technique never seen today but is certainly due a renaissance. And now with Fraterworks Cologne Imperiale 1853, it is possible to experience this treasured perfumery style.

    Fraterworks distills this cologne in a classic copper still (as pictured) just as the original was. A truly unique product.

    Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Rosemary
    Heart Notes: Neroli, Lavender, Verbena
    Base Notes: Cedarwood, Tonka bean, Benzoin, Ambergris

    IFRA 51: No restriction for category 4
    Appearance: Pale yellow liquid

    General Information

    Like most suppliers and makers of quality raw materials for fragrances, we do not filter many of our products. This ensures that no odiferous matter is lost prior to use but can result in the appearance of small particles or slight clouding.

    All alcoholic fragrances should be macerated for up to a month and then chilled in a moderate freezer overnight before being filtered fine. This will remove all cloudiness or detritus and is the industry norm.

    IFRA Standards

    Permitted amounts in finished product:

    IFRA 51: 100%
    IFRA 49: 100%

    These are derived from calculated concentrations which do not replace chromatographic quantification on individual lots. Disclaimer...

    For Trade Use Only

    Our products are intended as building blocks in the perfume creation process; they are not to be applied to the skin undiluted.

    These raw materials are for use by the perfumery trade only.

    View full details
    What is this?

    Demonstration Formulas

    Fraterworks demonstration formulas give you real-world examples of how our products are used. See the complete index.

    Jicky 1889 — Classical Fougère

    Oh! Sauvage — Aromatic Cologne

    * Disclaimer

    Customer Reviews

    Based on 3 reviews
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    S
    Sascha
    Unexpected

    I've been familiar with Guerlain's traditional Colognes (Imperiale, du Coq and Fleurs de Cedrat) for decades. This artisanal version of Guerlain's first true Cologne is an interesting experience, because of the significant differences compared to the current Imperiale versions offered by Guerlain.

    Dipped on a scent strip, the opening citrus-herbal notes fade away extremely fast. Too fast, actually. After 20-30 minutes, I barely can detect any citrus. This feels a bit strange to me, because (non-distilled) citrus oils last considerably longer, at least a few hours. So, with regard to citrus, Cologne Imperiale 1853 (CI 1853) is somewhat disappointing for me.

    Another difference to Guerlain's current cologne is that CI 1853 displays a rather prominent ambergris note reminiscent of Jamie's "Absolute Ambergris". This ambergris note, which is accompanied with some coumarine and a soft cedarwood touch, remains on the scent strip for hours quite strong. Even after 24 hours, I can smell this ambergis-coumarine-cedar easily.

    In my opinion, CI 1853 (at least this very batch) feels somehow unbalanced. Having in mind Guerlain's Imperiale (different batches), there's either too much base materials (ambergris) and/or too little citrus oils for my taste. However, this is a lovely (ambergris) Cologne, but it's quite far away from Guerlain's offering.

    Thanks for such a detailed review Sascha. It is really interesting to read your thoughts when comparing the modern version sold by Guerlain and our version produced with a tranditional copper still. The animalics can certainly be a surprise when we are used to the post-LVMH products from Guerlain in which all animal materials were prohibited by the parent company. An interesting fact for those reading is that all of the citrus oil in this product is distilled - so unlike modern versions which would be called 'quick maturing', you get a brighter and more delicate citrus top which is more fleeting.

    L
    Lorenzo
    Great cologne and tool

    Very good vintage-y cologne (Guerlain still produces a "Cologne Imperiale") that works on its own. Going to try to use it to build more complex perfumes or even just to use it as a sort of study tool to study the effects of other materials that cannot really be figured out alone (e.g. musks)

    l
    lia andrews
    Happy Cologne

    This is a lovely, bright cologne in its own right. Absolutely love the Jicky-type formula using this cologne as a base.

    • Regulations

      All of our products are compliant with EU 1223/2009 and the NZCPGS. None of our bases contain prohibited materials and regulatory compliance is possible depending on usage.

      Disclaimer 

    • IFRA Conformity

      All of our bases can be used in products requiring conformity with the latest IFRA standards. Fraterworks is an official member of IFRA and the FFAANZ.

    • Nitro Musks

      Some of our products may contain small amounts of EU and IFRA compliant musk ketone. We never use musk xylene, musk ambrette or any other prohibited materials.