Costus Oil
Costus Oil
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Source:
Fraterworks®
Warm animal fur and rooty Himalayan depth.
Soft violet powder threaded through fatty warmth.
Wet hair and goat skin from the high mountains.
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Variety: Saussurea costus Classification: Base Note[i]
Costus oil opens with a startling animalic warmth — the smell of fur, wet hair, and human scalp. Beneath that surprising start, you find a soft woody-rooty core threaded with violet and orris facets. The fatty quality lingers and slowly turns powdery.
This is your secret weapon for vintage chypres, orientals, and any composition that needs a pulse of human warmth. A trace dose lifts a floral heart into something animal and alive. Pair it with rose absolute and orris butter for a richly warm natural accord. Jean Carles famously used a whopping 0.6% pure in Miss Dior.
Our oil comes from costus farmed in its native Himalayan habitat — same soil, same altitude, same climatic stress that shapes the wild plant. The result preserves every facet of the wild character. Use it in trace amounts; even a tiny addition reshapes the composition entirely.
Costus features in several of our demo formulas (see below), such as YSL Homme, Dana Tabu, Femme by Rochas, and Patou Pour Homme. Costus Root Tincture, a related preparation made from the same root, also threads through our Mitsouko, and L'Origan reconstitutions.
NOTE: Costus oil has an IFRA prohibited specification so this should not be used in fragrances that are required to comply with IFRA standards.
Costus Oil is on CITES Appendix I. That means, for now, we can't sell it from New Zealand. We are working on a solution.
IFRA 51: Prohibited from use in fragrances
Odour Family:
Woody
Appearance: Pale straw liquid
Longevity: Lasts > 400 hours on a smelling strip.
Odour Profile: Costus oil has a distinctively animalic, fatty aroma reminiscent of warm fur and wet hair, with soft woody depth, violet-orris undertones, and an earthy rooty character.
Uses: Trace fixative and animalic accent for chypres, orientals, leather bases, and vintage floral accords.
INCI Name: SAUSSUREA LAPPA ROOT OIL
General Information
General Information
Like most suppliers and makers of quality raw materials for fragrances, we do not filter many of our products. This ensures that no odiferous matter is lost prior to use but can result in the appearance of small particles or slight clouding.
All alcoholic fragrances should be macerated for up to a month and then chilled in a moderate freezer overnight before being filtered fine. This will remove all cloudiness or detritus and is the industry norm.
IFRA Standards
IFRA Standards
Permitted amounts in finished product:
IFRA 51: Prohibited
IFRA 49: Prohibited
These are derived from calculated concentrations which do not replace chromatographic quantification on individual lots. Disclaimer...
For Trade Use Only
For Trade Use Only
Our products are intended as building blocks in the perfume creation process; they are not to be applied to the skin undiluted.
These raw materials are for use by the perfumery trade only.
Demonstration Formulas
Explore real-world examples showcasing the versatility and applications of our premium products. See the complete index.
YSL Homme — Aromatic Fragrance
Patou Pour Homme — Amber Fougère
* Disclaimer
Design Your Next Fragrance In 3 Simple Steps
Choose Your Ingredients
Select the weight and concentration that fit your needs.
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Use your materials to craft unique fragrances.
Highest quality materials, for those who formulate without compromise.
Perfumery is an art shaped by curiosity, knowledge, and the pursuit of the exceptional.
We source not only the DNA of fragrance composition but also the rare, the distinctive, and the nearly unobtainable. With a deep understanding of the craft and a history rooted in expertise and fragrance making, we provide more than just ingredients, we offer inspiration, guidance, and access to a world of scent that few ever experience.
We Source, You Create.
The foundation of every great fragrance starts here.
We Select The Finest Materials
We source every ingredient from trusted producers and ensure unmatched quality.
We Ensure Effortless Blending
Our materials integrate smoothly into any formulation, from classics to modern creations.
We Enhance Depth And Performance
Each ingredient delivers rich olfactory nuances, longevity, and structural balance.
We Guarantee Transparency
We trace every material to its source and maintain full consistency in every batch.
We Supply Experts And Artisans
Professional perfumers and niche brands trust us for precision, reliability, and artistry.
We Meet All Industry Standards
Our materials comply with IFRA and EU 1223/2009 regulations for safety and quality.
General Disclaimer
(a) Vegan labelling: Where the word “vegan” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any animal products to products marked vegan. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used animal additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked vegan “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.
(b) Natural labelling: Where the word “natural” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any synthetic additives to products marked natural. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used synthetic additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked natural “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.
(c) Documentation: We provide the information contained in each document you obtain from us (including but not limited to SDS, IFRA certificate, COA, TDS, EU Allergens, and any other regulatory document) “as is” and make no representation as to its accuracy, completeness, or reliability. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to a document you obtain from us. You purchase and use a document or documents at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of a document you obtain from us is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a document you obtain from us.
(d) Demonstration formulas: Demonstration formulas are provided as a guide only. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to the formula. You access and use the formula at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of the formula is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a formula.
Note: Wherever you are a professional perfumer or a hobbyist, we have what you need — from essential oils and absolutes, to bases, perfume chemicals (synthetics), bottles and more. We also offer compounding (contract blend), fragrance formulation, and an artisan lab visit for a guided smelling experience. Please note that we are not selling perfumes and that our materials are for use by perfume creation. We ship all around the world and have customer service that is second to none. We also stock educational kits and sample kits.
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Regulations
DisclaimerAll of our products are compliant with EU 1223/2009 and the NZCPGS. None of our bases contain prohibited materials and regulatory compliance is possible depending on usage.
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IFRA Conformity
All of our bases can be used in products requiring conformity with the latest IFRA standards. Fraterworks is an official member of IFRA and the FFAANZ.
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Nitro Musks
Some of our products may contain small amounts of EU and IFRA compliant musk ketone. We never use musk xylene, musk ambrette or any other prohibited materials.
Costus Oil