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    “As if from a fire composed of carefully selected woods.”
    Xavier Butler
    Bouleau Pyrogene 1840 Customer

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    Bouleau Pyrogene 1840

    Bouleau Pyrogene 1840

    Ref: 311224
    Manufacturer:
    $4.00 USD
    $4.00 USD
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    In days past, birch tar (le bouleau pyrogéné) was used in its crude form. Modern safety requirements mean that it must now be rectified via distillation to be used in cosmetics and fragrances. This rectification process removes unwelcome molecules but it also destroys a large number of safe and decidedly beautiful ones. This results in a piercing "smoke essence" far stronger than the original and lacking much of its character. Classic birch tar was more than just smoke: it was sweet, it was woody and it was evocative.

    Using a sample of a well-preserved batch of crude birch tar from 1840 as a guide, we were able to reconstruct this treasured oil in the form of a base. Centred around a heart of IFRA compliant rectified birch tar, Bouleau Pyrogene 1840 includes many natural materials and highly specialised aroma chemicals that allow us to offer a product that not only smells just like the real thing, but is also balanced when used in bold doses; indeed you may use this up to 1.81% of your finished product though we suggest far less.

    The base opens with an appealing hint of herbal medicaments making it an ideal companion to intense florals such as Tuberose Absolute and Ylang-ylang, especially the Extra Superior quality. Bouleau Pyrogene 1840 is animalic, smokey and woody with accents of florals, fruit and wild honey.

    This is the true birch tar profile so beloved of perfumers like Ernest Beaux who used it liberally in Bouquet De Catherine (later Rallet Le No 1 — formula below), an early iteration of his great masterpiece Chanel No 5.

    Bouleau Pyrogene 1840 can be used as a one for one replacer of Birch Tar in classical formulas or in lesser amounts for modern fragrances.

    Combine it with Ambergris Intense, Thujopsene, Iraldeine Delta and marine synthetics to conjure images of wooden sailing ships and tar soaked ropes, or create a Guy Fawkesian delight by adding touches to flinty Karanal, Frankincense oil and Iso E Super for a gunpowder meets bonfire night accord.

    Warning: This is a raw material for the manufacture of perfumes. Do not consume. Do not apply directly to skin. Keep out of reach of children.

    IFRA 51: 1.81% in finished product (Cat. 4)
    Appearance: Dark brown viscous liquid

    General Information

    Like most suppliers and makers of quality raw materials for fragrances, we do not filter many of our products. This ensures that no odiferous matter is lost prior to use but can result in the appearance of small particles or slight clouding.

    All alcoholic fragrances should be macerated for up to a month and then chilled in a moderate freezer overnight before being filtered fine. This will remove all cloudiness or detritus and is the industry norm.

    IFRA Standards

    Permitted amounts in finished product:

    IFRA 51: 1.81%
    IFRA 49: 1.81%

    These are derived from calculated concentrations which do not replace chromatographic quantification on individual lots. Disclaimer...

    For Trade Use Only

    Our products are intended as building blocks in the perfume creation process; they are not to be applied to the skin undiluted.

    These raw materials are for use by the perfumery trade only.

    UN:3082
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    Disclaimer | What is this?

    Demonstration Formula

    Fraterworks demonstration formulas give you real-world examples of how our products are used. See the complete index.

    Rallet Le № 1 — An Aldehydic Chypre

    * Disclaimer

    Customer Reviews

    Based on 4 reviews
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    K
    KZA Parker
    Simply extraordinary in depth

    Finding the precise words for this is difficult - but let's try anyway.

    A well-seasoned fireplace burning very, very good wood. A smoky leather jacket next to you in a booth. The rafters of a wood-fired kitchen, full of smoke and long dried herbs. A sweet tar. The scent of a forest burning just when the oils were richest. Birch smoke and tar and bark beneath. A lingering hint of some kind of rich dark fruit - a date pudding, maybe. A memory of a campfire on a cold night curled up close to someone. Slow smouldering coals with fresh wood added.

    And, less figuratively: Dark, sweet, and smoky. Phenolic tar notes that are perfectly balanced with the smoke and wood notes. Versatile - in high doses, it brings a bold darkness to the fore; in lower doses, it rounds things out with a general depth and richness of fragrant smoke.

    Paired 1:1 with the Ambre Royale base, I find it a most strikingly immediate incense note - the smell of smouldering combustion paired with the incense-reminiscent amber takes me immediately back, in the most pleasant sort of way, to the cheap woodless incense I used to buy when I was fifteen and have always since associated with clueless adolescent attempts at hedonism and sensuality. That perhaps undersells it (in the same way that describing ISO E Super as 'reminiscent of the pleasant part of stale deoderant' undersells IES, however true it is!), but I mention this combination to note just how fluidly the smoky-sweet-tar aspects of this base can interact on an even keel without overpowering other scents.

    M
    Mel
    Beautifully composed, uncanny and historically resonant base

    This is a beautifully constructed, sweet-smoky base that is sure to bring complexity, depth, and sophistication to any fragrant composition - but especially those that call for an authentic, elegant and historical evocation of perfume's past. While I would not characterise it as a conventional campfire or 'smoke' material, this exquisite base will take you on a mysterious journey!

    X
    Xavier Butler
    More beautiful than expected

    Beautiful smoke note, as if from a fire composed of carefully selected woods, rather than typical firewood

    M
    M.
    Just love it

    I bought 15g of this just to try it and I find this perfect for making a “burning wood” accord, it doesn’t have the harshness of birch tar yet containing each and every facet of woods and leather that birch has, not sure how to put it but i get flowers and dry fruits too .. a must have!

    General Disclaimer

    (a) Vegan labelling: Where the word “vegan” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any animal products to products marked vegan. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used animal additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked vegan “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.

    (b) Natural labelling: Where the word “natural” is used in relation to our products, that indicates that we have not added any synthetic additives to products marked natural. We do not verify whether any third-party supplier has used synthetic additives prior to supplying a product to us. We provide products marked natural “as is” and make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, or reliability of that claim.

    (c) Documentation: We provide the information contained in each document you obtain from us (including but not limited to SDS, IFRA certificate, COA, TDS, EU Allergens, and any other regulatory document) “as is” and make no representation as to its accuracy, completeness, or reliability. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to a document you obtain from us. You purchase and use a document or documents at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of a document you obtain from us is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a document you obtain from us.

    (d) Demonstration formulas: Demonstration formulas are provided as a guide only. We provide no warranties or guarantees in relation to the formula. You access and use the formula at your own risk. Any implied conditions or warranties are excluded and, to the extent that they cannot be excluded, any liability we have to you or any other person or entity in respect of the formula is limited to NZD0.01 (one cent). You indemnify us against any loss we suffer or incur as a direct or indirect result of your use of a formula.

    • Regulations

      All of our products are compliant with EU 1223/2009 and the NZCPGS. None of our bases contain prohibited materials and regulatory compliance is possible depending on usage.

      Disclaimer 

    • IFRA Conformity

      All of our bases can be used in products requiring conformity with the latest IFRA standards. Fraterworks is an official member of IFRA and the FFAANZ.

    • Nitro Musks

      Some of our products may contain small amounts of EU and IFRA compliant musk ketone. We never use musk xylene, musk ambrette or any other prohibited materials.